Florence Guide
We visited Florence for three weeks during September. It's a walkable city rich with art, history, and delicious Italian food options. You could easily stay in Florence for a week exploring, coupled with day trips to the Tuscan countryside.
General Thoughts
I was surprised by how crowded the city was with tourists while we were there, thinking the tourist season was during the summer months. I later learned that the peak season continues into September. Consider visiting in October when the weather is still decent but the streets and sights are less crowded.
The city was very walkable. No need for a car or taxis, which is a good thing since either would be a pain to deal with in the city center which has many pedestrian-only streets and loads of tourists to dodge.
If you're staying in Florence for longer than 3 days, consider the Firenze card (read my recap on it here).
Sapori & Dintorni is a great little grocery store with a convenient, central location for picking up essentials.
Mosquitos while we visited were no joke. We picked up new bites everyday, which ended up covering our arms and ankles. Beware!
To Eat & Drink
Osteria Vini e Vecci Sapori - Perfect little osteria, great for a date. Had our favorite pasta of Florence here (pappardelle duck ragu). You'll need a reservation.
Coquinarius - Loved this restaurant for its crostini, wine list, and pasta. Cheese and pear ravioli was a highlight.
Trattoria Za Za - Classic Florence spot with wide variety of dishes, located near Mercato Centrale. Plenty of seating, so great for groups or if you don't have reservations for dinner. Would make a great first meal in Florence.
Trattoria Mario - A super authentic institution, Trattoria Mario is only open from 12-3:30pm each day, and it’s popular with both locals and tourists. They’re known to serve up classics, including bistecca alla fiorentina. Order it with a side of fagioli all'uccelletto (beans in tomato sauce) and a glass of Brunello.
Le Menagere - Amazing space. Good for any time of day - coffee, cocktails, lunch, dinner, or even just an afternoon spritz. Ask the wait staff if there's any upcoming live music scheduled in their downstairs venue.
Mercato Centrale - Following a popular trend, this revitalized market has old school produce-based vendors on the first floor and a new, modern food court of local restaurants/chefs on the second floor. We visited multiple times to grab lunch, a coffee, or produce for meals at our apartment. The "bollito" (boiled beef) sandwich at Nerbone is popular, and we also liked the Pasta Fresca stand downstairs to make customized pasta and accompanying sauce for a cheap and light lunch.
Sandwichic - Recommended by a friend (thanks, Runde!). Loved it so much we went back instead of trying a new sandwich spot. Great, helpful staff that will guide you to your perfect sandwich. We fell in love with one that had local salami, pecorino, and sweet pepper jam.
All'antico Vinaio - In our first few days here, we noticed everyone wandering with sandwiches in their hands with the same familiar wrapper, which is from this spot. It's near the Uffizi, so a perfect quick lunch in between museums. You'll know you've found it when you see two identical shops across the street from each other with matching pair of long lines. Many people squat on the curb nearby to eat them, but I recommend taking a short walk to to the river to eat them with a better view.
Ditta Artigianale - Hip coffee shop, with great options for breakfast and lunch, too. We went multiple times, but vastly preferred the location across the river.
Le Vespe - Charming spot with cute decor, great for breakfast, lunch/brunch.
Bitter Bar - 1920s themed bar with great cocktails. Dark and cozy, perfect for a rainy night. I was a big fan of the "My Cherry Kiss" cocktail with brandy, egg white, rhubarb, and white chocolate shavings.
Perche No - There's an overwhelming amount of places to have gelato, but this was my favorite. I had a combo of Austrian chocolate cake/coffee crunch, while Jeff loved his pistachio/Florentina cream pairing. Other great gelato spots to sample include Vivoli (oldest in Florence) and Grom (an international gelato chain, based in Turin).
Il Pizzaiuolo - Recommended to us for pizza, though we didn't have a chance to try it.
To See & Do
Visit the Boboli or Bardini gardens and enjoy a picnic. Pick up picnic goodies from Sapori & Dintorni (grocery store) and Pegna (gourmet grocer).
Stop at one of the retro Foto booths for a fun €2 souvenir
See works of art by Renaissance titans Leonardo, Michelangelo, Raphael, and Donatello at art museums like Uffizi and Accademia Gallery. If you're visiting Florence for more than a couple days, consider picking up the Firenze card museum pass.
Catch a soccer match at Stadio Artemio Franchi and root for the home team (wear purple!). You can pick up front row tickets for €25 at the ticket booth in Piazza della Repubblica.
Enjoy a bottle of wine with the sunset overlooking the city at Piazzale Michelangelo or find a more secluded nook in the neighboring Rose Gardens.
Climb the Arnolfo tower at Palazzo Vecchio for a less crowded, less claustrophobic experience than the Duomo cupola climb, but a just-as-good panoramic view (that even includes the Duomo itself!)
Go on a scavenger hunt to find the many scuba mask portraits of Italian icons by street artist Blub
Stroll across the Arno river (skip the Ponte Vecchio, opt for a different bridge) and explore the other side, known as Oltrarno. Grab dinner in Piazza Santo Spirito.
Take a cooking class in Florence or nearby Tuscany. I highly recommend this one, which picks up and drops off at the Florence train station for an easy day trip.
Spend a day or two in Tuscany to enjoy the quieter countryside and amazing wine. Stay at an agriturismo (many of which are also listed on Airbnb).
To Stay
We stayed in this Airbnb and loved it. The area was perfect for us - centrally located but not smack dab in the insanity. Santa Croce is a great neighborhood, full of locals.
